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A compelling study on gene arrays, by William S. Middleton Memorial Veterans Hospital and Lifegen Technologies researchers in Madison, Wisconsin, demonstrated that dosages of approximately 350 mgs/day of resveratrol (4.9 mg per kg of body weight) creates a gene activation profile close to a calorie inhibited diet. Super high resveratrol doses (greater than 500 milligrams) are not necessary to activate the gene and potentially produce side effects.
Both caloric reduction and resveratrol have displayed the ability to extend the life of all life forms, ranging from single-cell organisms (yeast cells) to more complex forms of life (fruit flies, roundworms) and warm-blooded mammals (laboratory rats).
Potential Resveratrol side effects of high resveratrol dosage supplements are numerous.
Once mega-doses of resveratrol (more than 500 mg) began to be employed, side effects like anemia, Achilles heel tendonitis, anxiety reactions, numbness in the fingers, began to be reported, says Bill Sardi, spokesperson for Longevinex This is probably because resveratrol is a copper chelator and excessive chelation will impair the availability of copper which is needed for collagen formation and nerve regeneration, he says. Resveratrol is relatively safe, but not absolutely safe at any dosage. There are drawbacks, he adds.
Some internet Resveratrol supplement sellers, who have no medical background or scientific research supporting their Resveratrol products, recklessly offer capsules with mega Resveratrol doses well above 350mg/day. There is also research showing that super high resveratrol doses restrict the absorption of folic acid (vitamin B9), an important nutrient required for DNA repair. [European Journal Nutrition. It is important to note that large resveratrol dosages have not been examined in humans for extended consumption.
Marketing claims by resveratrol supplement manufacturers that their capsules produce greater activation of the Sirt 1 gene(the DNA-repair gene) should also be questioned because an animal study demonstrated over-activation (greater than 7.5 fold) of this gene encourages heart failure in animals. [Circulation Research 2007] In addition, many studies have shown that activation of the Sirt1 gene requires only a nominal amount of Resveratrol – 10 – 15mg.
The health and longevity benefits of Resveratrol seem to numerous from all the research, but the most efficacious Resveratrol dosage is still unclear. Taking the “More is Better” attitude that is fomented by aggressive marketers may lead consumers to additional problems from the over dosing side effects that are potentially prevalent. There is one company, Resvantage , that offers a low dose resveratrol of 15 mg that they say allows people to get a resveratrol dose more in line with a lot of the research, that suggests this is the amount needed to activate the Sert 1 proteins in the DNA, without the concern of potential side effects from large dosage resveratrol supplements.
If you have had any personal issues with side effects from taking large dosages of Resveratrol feel free to post a comment below.
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Our vet has recommended that we have him humanely euthanised, due to the fact that he is spreading the virus when he fights with other cats, but I am very attached to him and it breaks my heart to have a healthy cat put down for this reason alone?
Ottilie
South Africa
Feline AIDS is caused by the feline immunodeficiency virus (also known as FIV). FIV is related to HIV, the virus that causes human AIDS. There is no evidence that FIV poses a health risk to humans.
Like HIV, FIV is not highly contagious. It is spread by fighting. And like HIV, untreated FIV takes seven to 10 (or more) years to be fatal. Sadly, there is no safe or effective method to treat FIV.
Like your vet, I am worried that your cat is spreading FIV to other individuals in the area. The sort of fighting that leads to abscesses is exactly the type of behavior that transmits the disease.
Also, remember that the virus may have weakened your cats immune system. He is therefore more likely to suffer from serious infections and other complications from fights and injuries that occur outdoors.
However, I dont agree that euthanasia is the best option for your cat. I recommend instead that you keep him indoors. You state that he cannot be kept inside, but you dont offer many details that indicate why. Have you truly made a concerted effort to keep Charlie indoors?
I recommend that you seriously try to keep him inside. There may be a difficult adjustment period as he gets used to his new lifestyle. But if he is like most cats I have known, he ultimately will adapt and thrive.
If you do not keep Charlie indoors you will be endangering his health as well as that of other cats in your area.
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In a statistical anomaly, it was CROW's third bald eagle in 10 days - the clinic usually treats about 10 a year."It seems that every year we have more of one bird species," clinic director PJ Deitschel said. "Last year we had an overabundance of blue jays. The year before, it was an overabundance of screech owls. Hopefully, it's not eagles this year."
The first eagle, an older juvenile, was found Feb. 19 on the ground in a Buckingham cow pasture, paralyzed from the neck down.
"He was very dull," veterinarian Amber McNamara said. "He had no fractures and no wounds - he had blood on his beak, but that might have been from his last meal. We assumed it was trauma of some sort, maybe an argument with another bird."
Deitschel and McNamara gave the bird pain medication and fluids, and because the clinic practices Eastern as well as Western medicine, they also treated it with acupuncture.
No response, until 30 minutes later, when the vets removed the needles.
"He stood up, spread his wings and stomped his feet," McNamara said. "It was the most dramatic response I've ever seen. It was like, get out of my space. From there, he never looked back."
After six days of resting and feasting on fish, rats and mice, the bird was released in Buckingham.
An 8-pound bald eagle recovering from injuries or illness can eat a pound of fish and meat per day.
"Eagles are opportunistic feeders," Deitschel said. "They'll eat roadkill; they'll steal from ospreys and vultures. They're not persnickety, and they have a hearty appetite."
CROW's second eagle, an unfledged juvenile, had apparently fallen from its nest off Lake Devonwood Drive in south Fort Myers.
In a week or two, CROW will release eagle No. 2. To read the rest of this article click on www.news-press.
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Will my recommendations work for you?
Yes!
My aim is to support you to source the best muscles exercises, diet and attitudinal programmes that will best help you on your road to looking and feeling great; and on top of this to help you to do it on your terms.
So who am I?
My name is Stephen Kember, Im English. I live in SW France. For the best part of my life Ive been a business development professional spending most of my time sitting in front of a computer, attending soul wrenching, stressed out, meetings or driving to visit thankless clients on endless motorways!
Did this affect me and my body? I've no need to tell you; you know the story. But when younger I was a cross country runner and successful competitive swimmer until the age of 38, so I know about keeping fit; but all that I'd learnt in the past bore little fruit when I tried to apply it later in life in my 50s!
I hit the wall. I realised my life had to change!
When I set out on my own personal path to get fit, to shape up, to reduce my middle age expanding waist and to develop my muscles I simply wanted good clean advice that would help me along the way.
Was this too much to ask?
Well sadly the answer was Yes! It turned out that it was too much to ask!
I say this because I'd been to the gym and paid my dues; but I'd made so little real progress even though I was really committed. I'd read many, many expensive magazines and tried to follow the advice but found that I went from exercise to exercise getting nowhere. I read so many adverts and wasted so much money on programmes that when they arrived I realised that they just weren't right for me.
The story is pathetic but I now know that its a story that replicated time and time again as its one that is so, so common!
This said I'm now part way transformed. I've discovered programmes that do work; Ive remarried and have a wonderful wife; Ive a new business focus; I live in a wonderful part of the world and Ive got a really positive outlook on life.
Im now working hard on my muscle tone, my level of fitness, my mental attitude to all aspects of my life and my diet. For some time now I've been determined to get into the best shape of my life because in my heart of hearts I know I can be much, much better.
So what changed, whats made the difference?
The truth is I stumbled on a programme on You Tube of all places. I watched the video and many more and after looking at the course I sent for it.
Almost at once after starting the course I started to see benefits. These first came in my changed mindset, improved body tone and strangely in an improvement in the all round quality of my life. It helped me with my sleep, my diet and my muscle development, I especially realised it was working when people [ in the first instance my kids] started to notice the difference in me and commented.
What I liked best, was that after a couple of months Id lost 4 off my waist; Id hugely improved my muscle tone and clearly from the weights I was lifting with greater ease I was much stronger.
I then realised that Id found success and that all the research Id done could be shared.
So thats it, the idea of the blog was conceived.
Do have a look at the posts and let me know what you think and if what I have to say is of interest I hope that youll sign up to the same programs and tell me of your experiences, which Im sure will be of interest to others.
As such Im hoping the blog will become a powerful family tool where we all make recommendations, share ideas and build rapport. Better still, if you tell your friends about the blog and how its helped you then the whole thing will simply grow and grow.
So lets start.
My first recommendation to get you into the best shape of your life is to have a look at the programme that I started with. Theres a different programme for men and for women because were different.
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Although any joint in a dogs body can be affected by arthritis, three of the most commonly affected areas are the hips, elbows, and lower back.
Coming soon - What are the causes of canine osteoarthritis
Healthy Hint: Along with prescription anti-inflammatory medications for canine arthritis, there are a few natural supplements that can make a difference for your suffering dog. Among the leading homeopathic medicines for arthritis are glucosamine, MSM (methylsulfonymethane) and chondroitin. Sticking to natural, homeopathic medications has many advantages, such as ease of obtaining the medicines and less risk of side effects.
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$24.
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Why is he pacing at night? Why is she snappy with the kids? How could our dog lose housetraining after all these years? Why is he staring into space and seems disoriented?
Why is she howling? Our dog just lies around and ignores us!
These are all important questions and concerns that owners of senior dogs relay to their veterinarian. Could it be more than just normal aging changes?
Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS), also termed Canine Cognitive Disorder (CCD), and commonly referred to as senility or "old dog" syndrome is a gradual, progressive loss of thinking (cognition) processes such as awareness, perception of surroundings, ability to learn, and memory. The family may note signs of this reduced cognition but not recognize the syndrome as a treatable disorder. This condition is not limited to extremely geriatric pets. A dog that is in the last one third of the normal lifespan can be affected. For the average dog, that is eight years of age or older.
When animals age, they lose mobility, have reduced immune system function, slower metabolism, loss of muscle and bone mass, and their senses of hearing, sight, and smell are reduced. These are all normal aging changes. CDS is characterized by behavioural changes that can lead to a break in the close bond shared between pet and family members as changes in temperament or loss of housetraining occur.
If you senior dog is showing any unusual changes, let your veterinarian know. They will ask for a complete history of the problem(s), and perform a thorough physical and neurological examination of the dog. Blood tests, urine analysis, X-rays or other tests may be recommended to help rule out any physical illness because these conditions can often produce the same signs that CDS does. Note that CDS may also occur in older pets with other illnesses; diagnosis in these instances can be very challenging since symptoms can overlap.
Cognitive dysfunction (CD) is characterized by:
* Weight loss / Appetite changes
* Confusion / Disorientation / Anxious look / Staring into space / Getting lost in the house
* Altered pattern of sleeping and waking
* Loss of learned behaviours such as obedience commands and housetraining
* Change in relationship with family such as aloofness, aggression, apparent loss of recognition of voice and person
* Abnormal vocalization such as howling, monotonous barking
If CD is identified, L-deprenyl is a prescription-only drug that can help to minimize symptoms by enhancing brain dopamine levels. Dopamine is a nerve messenger chemical and if it is depleted, may result in lower thinking ability. This drug also helps protect the neurons. Make sure your veterinarian is aware of changes in your pet's behaviour so that proper assessment and treatment can be done. There is no cure for CDS, so the treatment goal is to provide a better quality of life and slow the progression of symptoms. Your veterinarian will know the right method of treatment for your pet.
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Canine parvoviral enteritis, caused by the canine parvovirus, is a highly contagious disease in dogs that affects their digestive system. Before the late 1970's, parvoviral enteritis did not even exist and most of what we now know of this disease has been discovered since then. It is now known that the diseases is transmitted via the oral/fecal route. Huge numbers of virus are shed in the stools of infected dogs for up to two weeks after infection. Since the virus is extremely hardy, it can survive and remain infectious for months in the environment and is extremely difficult to kill with disinfectants.
Once an unprotected dog is exposed to the virus, it only takes about 5 days to show signs of the disease. These signs can include loss of appetite, lethargy, fever, vomiting, and profuse and usually bloody diarrhea. Death occurs in severe cases, usually as a result of dehydration, overwhelming infection, or shock. This is especially true in young unprotected dogs (especially puppies between weaning and six months of age), although dogs of any age can become infected. Certain breeds such as rottweiler and Doberman pinschers are at higher risk.
Parvoviral infections can occur inside the uterus during pregnancy or shortly after birth, causing acute inflammation of the puppies' heart muscles (called myocarditis). While this was quite common in the early days of the disease, this rarely occurs now since most dams are protected against the virus (usually via vaccination) and pass on their immunity to their puppies.
Parvoviral enteritis is often suspected when bloody diarrhea occurs in a dog. A simple test is available that can be performed quickly and inexpensively at a veterinary hospital. Fortunately, most dogs recover with early treatment. In fact, if an animal can survive the first 3-4 days of illness, a full recovery can be anticipated barring an unforeseen complications.
Since the virus is so tough and can survive in the environment for such a long time, it is almost impossible to prevent exposure. Vaccination is the only truly effective way of preventing and controlling this disease. Your veterinarian can advise you on which vaccination schedule is best suited for your dog.
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Compulsive licking and grooming can lead to self-injury in the form of lick granuloma, an ulcerous lesion which can become infected. The more the dog licks, the worse the itching and the worse the lesion, and so on. Dogs can also become compulsive about licking things besides themselves. They can compulsively lick furniture, the floor, the walls, or even you.
The best thing to do is to find what it is that is making your dog anxious and try to address the problem. Sometimes you can’t remove the person or thing making your dog anxious but you can find ways to help your dog adjust. For instance, there are ways to help your dog cope with separation anxiety. However, it may be necessary to consult with a veterinarian. He or she may need to temporarily prescribe some medication to help with your dog’s problem.
Ordinary licking to show affection is perfectly normal. It’s also normal for a dog to lick other dogs and to lick objects to find out how they taste. Your dog may be looking for food crumbs or trying to find out if there’s anything left on the object worth tasting. Licking isn’t usually a behavior that most people discourage too much. If you don’t want your dog to lick you, your dog will usually pick up on your signals (Eeewww! Yuck!) and cut back on the behavior, but it comes very naturally to some dogs. I doubt that I could make Pearl stop doing it if I tried.
If your dog has bad doggy breath, however, there is something you can do about that. Dog Smog Remedy can do away with bad dog breath. It’s an all-natural breath freshener. It contains peppermint and fennel to improve your dog’s breath which really helps when your dog has been licking all kinds of things and then wants to give you a kiss! If your dog is going to lick, they should definitely have fresh breath. You can either spray Dog Smog Remedy in your dog’s mouth or add a couple of drops to your dog’s food or water. Dog Smog Remedy helps dogs who eat bad things outside, too. Do you have a poop eater? I know disgusting. That’s a whole different problem, but your dog definitely needs Dog Smog Remedy.
One other thing. If your dog does have very bad breath you should check their teeth and gums. It could be a sign that they have dental problems. I had one dog that we jokingly called “Breath of Death” because her breath was so bad, but it turned out that she had some tooth decay that needed vet attention. So, do check your dog’s teeth if you notice that their breath gets much worse than usual.
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Sand boas of the genera Eryx and Gongylophis have long had an undeserved reputation of being boring pets. Most first-time snake buyers end up deciding on a colourful corn snake, kingsnake, or other small, easy-to-keep colubrid. Fact is, most species of sand boas are also simple to care for, and because they are smaller and slower moving, are also easier to handle â" so they are good for beginners. There are a number of species to choose from, and many specimens are intricately patterned, without even mentioning the variety of colour morphs on the market. Sand boas are primarily nocturnal, meaning they are active mostly at night.
This article is a general overview on the care of sand boas. I explain the methods that have worked best for me, which should serve as a reference for determining the species and methods that are best for you.
Housing
Sand boa housing can be anything from a simple tupperware box to a naturalistic vivarium setup. For a baby sand boa, I recommend a tupperware box no larger than 10 x 6 x 4 inches (ca. 25 x 15 x 10 cm) LxWxH. A small first enclosure helps the young snake feel secure, and also helps stimulate a feeding response during this period when the snake may be a finicky eater.
A small adult male can be housed in a tupperware box of approximately 10 x 10 x 6 inches (25 x 25 x 15 cm) LxWxH. A small enclosure increases the chances of a good feeding response, which is especially important for males because they tend to fast for several weeks at a time throughout the year. I keep larger adult males in tubs measuring 16 x 10 x 6 inches (ca. 40 x 25 x 15 cm).
For housing an adult female of a smaller species, I recommend a minimum enclosure size of 20 x 12 x 6 inches (ca. 50 x 30 x 15 cm) LxWxH; for an adult female of a larger species, a minimum of 24 x 18 x 6 inches (ca. 60 x 45 x 15 cm).
Females of all species are often easier to care for than males (I would suggest acquiring females if possible). Females are generally not problem feeders, and are also generally larger and more active than males, making them easier to find in the enclosure. These factors make females easier than males to house in naturalistic enclosures. A 4-foot-long (122 cm) desert vivarium can be very attractive and should be considered by anyone who wants to keep these snakes as pets.
Whichever type of enclosure you decide to use, good ventilation is very important.
Tupperware boxes are virtually airtight, so holes must be drilled in the sides. I recommend a row of holes, every 2 centimetres, around the sides. To prevent escapes, the diameter of the holes should be no more than 2 millimetres for the smallest babies, and no more than 3â"4 millimetres for larger snakes. I cut larger holes (50 mm) and cover them with fine-mesh zinc screen. There should be no rough edges left after drilling.
DÃcor
Creating a naturalistic vivarium setup can be very satisfying, but one rule should always apply: Safety first! All heavy objects must be carefully secured so that the snake cannot make them move â" by climbing, pushing, or burrowing â" and possibly be crushed. The layout should also be sensible. However attractive it might seem to construct a rock pile in the vivarium, finding your snake within it would be practically impossible. Design the decoration so that you have easy access to every part of the enclosure without having to move heavy objects.
Anything that goes into the enclosure must be cleaned thoroughly beforehand. A weak solution of bleach in warm water is adequate for washing cage furnishings. Rocks, wood, bark, and artificial plants are all fine for the sand boa enclosure. Driftwood is commonly available in many pet shops, and makes excellent dÃcor for any terrarium.
Certain types of live cactus can be used, but these must be carefully chosen to avoid accidents. Stay away from those with lots of spines that the snake would have trouble gliding between. Also avoid spines that are soft and come off easily, as these could get into the snakeâs eyes and mouth. Other dessert plants such as stonecrop can also be used.
Heating
I use two types of heating for sand boas: heat mats for my racks of tubs, and basking lamps (in conjunction with fluorescent lighting) for my naturalistic setups.
Whichever method is used, a daytime hot spot should be kept at about 90ºF (32ÂC), and the snake should always be able to retreat to a cooler area kept at about 78ºF (25ÂC). Nighttime temperature can drop to about 76â"80ºF (24âC) overall. Heat sources MUST be connected to a thermostat to automatically control temperatures. I use pulse-proportional thermostats for heat mats, and dimming thermostats for heat lamps.
The heat source should be at one end of the enclosure. I have 6-inch-wide (15 cm) heat mats at the back of my rack systems. The removable snake tubs slide into the rack and rest comfortably with the thermostatically controlled heat source at the back.
Lighting
Lighting is not necessary for sand boas, so is used primarily for the benefit of viewers. If you choose to light your sand boa enclosure, use a fluorescent tube. I prefer natural sunlight tubes; they are inexpensive, bright, and emit very little heat, which is ideal. Normal incandescent household bulbs can be used, but make certain that the snake cannot burn itself. These light bulbs get very hot, and, if used at all, should be protected with a mesh cage. Snakes are often burned when they climb too close to heat sources. Sand boas are no exception, and will climb if given the opportunity.
Substrate
This is a perpetual topic of discussion among snake keepers. I currently keep all my sand boas on aspen bedding, although over the years I have tried newspaper, sand, bark chips, savannah wood chips, and corncob substrate. Following are pros and cons of various substrate materials.
Aspen. This relatively cheap bedding of shredded wood is lightweight and easy for the snakes to burrow in, so I do not even bother with providing hide boxes in my tupperware tubs. Aspen is relatively attractive, and soaks up excretion quickly. The one down side is that it is often dusty. It is a good idea to shake it well to remove most of the dust before putting it into the enclosure.
Newspaper. This is the most economic substrate, but it has many downsides. Newspaper, laid flat on the bottom of the terrarium, cannot be spot cleaned; instead it must be completely removed and replaced with fresh paper every week or two. If you spill the water bowl, you have to replace the whole lot. Also, newspaper does not allow the snake to burrow, so you must provide hiding places (at least two). This means more cleaning. However, if you have the time, newspaper is the most hygienic substrate.
Bark chips. I find this to be the most aesthetically pleasing, but also the most unhygienic substrate. When damp, bark chips provide favourable conditions for small parasites. I noticed an increase in snake mites when I was using this substrate. Also, the colour of bark chips makes it difficult to spot feces, which I therefore often inadvertently left in the boxes for a long time. I keep wanting to go back to this kind of substrate for its appearance, but it just isnât worth the hassle.
Savannah chips. These beechwood chips are not a great substrate for sand boas. After a short time they become compacted, making a harder substrate layer that is not as easy for the snakes to burrow under. If this substrate becomes wet or soiled, fungal growth appears more rapidly than with any other substrate I have used. It is also heavier than some other substrates, and quite expensive.
Sand. When people think of sand boas, they automatically assume that the best substrate material for these snakes would be sand. But in fact, of all the different species and varieties of sand boas, there are probably only two that are truly sand dwellers, the Arabian and the Saharan, and even these are quite happy on lighter substrates such as aspen. Sand is extremely heavy, and a real drag to work with. Some kinds are very dusty. If it gets wet, sand takes a surprising amount of time to dry, and can keep the level of cage humidity high for several days. I have also had bad experiences feeding snakes on this substrate. A sand boa can grab a mouthful of indigestible sand along with a prey item, swallow it all together, and end up with a gut impaction. On the other hand, sand is easy to spot clean with a sieve or scoop. Also, I think sand is the most appealing to the eye, and I use it in all of my display tanks.
Corncob. This substrate is lightweight and quite visually appealing. However, it should be avoided at all costs. If ingested, corncob can cause impaction in the gut and has been known to kill small snakes, and it is really no better in any way than other substrates already mentioned.
Water
In general, sand boas do not drink quite as much as many other snakes, and it is not crucial that they always have water available. Hygiene is important, and water offered must always be clean, but if the bowl dries out for a short period, donât worry. I have found that removing the water bowl stimulates a feeding response in finicky eaters.
When choosing a water bowl, remember that sand boas are very strong burrowers. The bowl does not have to be heavy, but it should sit flat, directly on the bottom of the enclosure. Sand boas are generally clumsy, and quickly knock over small bowls that are not of an appropriate shape or are not positioned correctly. Small porcelain pet bowls can work well. It is important that the cage not become wet, so choosing the right water bowl is important.
Feeding
Juvenile sand boas need a regular feeding every 5â"7 days. They have a higher metabolic rate than adults, so burn off their food much quicker. Baby sand boas of all species are very small. Some â" especially Turkish, Javelin, and Russian sand boas â" may be even too small to feed on pinky mice. Try offering pinky mice anyway (you may be amazed at the size of prey they can swallow), but if the snakes really canât take them, you may have to use pinkies of smaller rodents (such as Russian hamsters), or pieces of larger rodents. Parts of the tail of an adult mouse often works.
As the young snake grows, it can be stepped up to taking mouse fuzzies. I have found it better for the snake to feed on one larger prey item rather than several smaller ones. I prefer feeding one fuzzy instead of two or three pinkies, and have found that the snakes grow quicker with this method.
Once the snake is able to take small to medium-sized mice, one feeding every 7â"10 days is adequate, and one feeding every 14 days will suffice for adults. Most adult sand boas can take adult mice or weaner rats. The ideal prey size is just slightly bigger around than the girth of the snake. Males often choose not to feed for several weeks at a time, and some individuals may eat only 6â"10 times a year. Females should be offered more, and will readily accept. Breeders should be offered food weekly.
Occasionally, sand boas stop accepting food, or, in the case of newborns, never even start to feed. Following are a few tips to help get problem sand boas to take food.
â The first and foremost reason that juvenile and newly acquired snakes do not feed is unsuitable habitat â" enclosure size, substrate, hiding areas, heating, etc. Double-check to make sure conditions are correct.
â The prey item may be the wrong size. Sand boas even sometimes refuse food that is too small. They usually readily accept prey that is about as big around as they are at the thickest point. Try feeding larger food items rather than smaller ones; this has worked for me particularly with rough-scaled sand boas.
â Prey species also makes a difference. Some individuals may prefer mice to rats, or vice versa. Try varying food items, including mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, chicks or small birds, and small lizards such as Sceloporus or Anolis.
â If all else fails, my next step would be to âdry the snake out.â Remove the water bowl and turn up the temperature a degree or two. After a week, offer a dripping wet prey item, touching it to the snakeâs mouth. Often the snake will drink from the food, and then proceed to eat it. This method has worked several times for me with rough-scaled sand boas and Russian sand boas.
Table 1. Overview of sand boa species that are available (or becoming available) in the hobby.
Species/ Size (approximate) / Male / Female / Temperament
Eryx jaculus jaculus
Javelin sand boa 12â"18 in. (30â"46 cm) 20â"30 in. (51â"76 cm)
Quite aggressive
Eryx jaculus familiaris
Bulgarian sand boa 12â"18 in. (30â"46 cm) 18â"24 in. (46â"61 cm)
Very docile
Eryx jaculus turcicus
Turkish sand boa 12â"18 in. (30â"46 cm) 18â"24 in. (46â"61 cm)
Generally docile
Eryx jayakari
Arabian sand boa 16 in. (40 cm) 16 in. (40 cm)
Generally docile
Eryx johnii
Indian sand boa 24â"30 in. (61â"76 cm) 30â"48 in. (76â"122 cm)
Very docile
Eryx miliaris miliaris
Russian sand boa 12â"15 in. (30â"38 cm) 20â"28 in. (51â"71 cm)
Generally docile
Eryx miliaris nogaiorum
Black Russian sand boa 12â"15 in. (30â"38 cm) 20â"28 in. (51â"71 cm)
Generally docile
Eryx tataricus tataricus
Tartar sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 36 in. (91 cm)
Generally docile
Eryx tataricus speciosus Spotted sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 36 in. (91 cm)
Generally docile
Gongylophis colubrinus
East African sand boa 15â"18 in. (38â"46 cm) 24â"36 in. (61â"91 cm)
Generally docile
Gongylophis conicus
Rough-scaled sand boa 15 in. (38 cm) 30 in. (76 cm)
Generally docile
Gongylophis muelleri
Saharan sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 30 in.
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The dog is having a problem walking, especially with his hind legs. He seems to be shuffling slowly when he walks and his energy level is obviously low. Danny's coat appears coarse and dry, and looking a his tongue, it is a little on the pale side, with several cracks on the surface. I take his pulse and it feels weak and slow. Mr. A has been giving Danny supplements for his joints like glucosamine and chondroitin for years and he is on a a prescription diet for his arthritis. Lately, Danny has not been doing well, and has even developed a little incontinence. Mr. A is here and he would like us to try acupuncture. Going over my examination notes, I find that Danny, according to chinese system of diagnosis, has Chi, Blood and Yin deficiency. The involvement of the bones in his symptoms and the incontinence points also to Kidney deficiency. I place a few needles in Danny- I do not place a lot of needles in the first session in an older animal because sometimes- they get very weak. If the energy in a patients body is low, I do not overstimulate by using too many points. Danny's symptoms also point to his condition as being Cold and Deficient. I do a little moxa in his case. Moxa is an herb also called Artemisia or mugwort, which is burnt and applied to the needles to heat the acupuncture points. This improves the circulation and dispels the coldness in Danny's body. I use moxa rolled up(moxa sticks) to do this. After several sessions of acupuncture, each session reassessing his symptoms and signs, Danny has improved remarkable. He is now able to walk faster, and his energy level is good for his age and his "accidents" are so infrequent that Mr. A hardly mentions them when he sees me. Mr. A continues to bring Danny in for a "tune up" session every month and it seems that Danny looks forward to these treatments.
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Synovial joints are located in many different part of the body and make it possible for both humans and dogs to move freely while serving in a shock absorbing capacity. Each synovial joint consists of ligaments, cartilage on which the ends of the bones move or articulate, joint fluid designed to lubricate the joint and provide nutrition to the articular cartilage, and a tough, fibrous capsule surrounding it all. Additionally, some synovial joints contain special pads of cartilage, known as menisci, which act as super shock absorbers.
Arthritis can affect one joint or multiple joint (polyarthritis). Joint inflammation can be accompanied by loss of cartilage orbony changes within the joint(s).
Arthritis in dogs may be brought about by:
* Age
* Overuse of Joints
* Trauma or Injury
* Infections
* Certain drugs (overuse of antibiotics)
* Autoimmune diseases
Regardless of the cause, the signs linked with this condition are relatively easy to spot and basically the same in most animals. Stiffness and lameness involving one or more limbs is often the most obvious sign of a joint condition. In most instances, dog arthritis becomes worse in the winter due to cold weather. While exercise is important for you and your pets health is tends to aggravate dog arthritis.
If your dog is experiencing arthritic joint problems you may have noticed their irritability and overall reluctance to run and jump. If your dog is experiencing an arthritic hip condition he may have trouble performing even the simplest task, such as walking or getting to his feet after taking a nap. Your pets may experience pain in the joints as well as swelling, especially if the condition was brought about by an infection or an autoimmune disease. Depression, fever, and loss of appetite could become apparent over time as your pet struggles with the painful challenges he faces on a daily basis.
Your veterinarian will arrive at a diagnosis by simple observing joint and gate movements, performing a physical palpation of the joint or joints in question, and possibly obtaining a radiograph or X-ray.
Once a diagnosis has been confirmed conventional treatment options are somewhat limited, stopping short of surgery.
On a personal note I have had some success with water therapy (swimming pool, tub) for joint problems. The water will make exercise less painful and who knows, perhaps with a little work it might become fun for both of you!
While conventional treatment options are limited there are some excellent natural treatment alternatives available which have shown promise for managing and reversing dog and pet arthritis.
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Similar posts: canine arthritis
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Behavioral changes will give your the clues that your are dealing with an ear mite infection.
If your pet starts shaking his head violently or wont stop scratching at his ears, even to the point where he is crying out because it is painful, you are probably dealing with ear mites.
So who are these tiny pests, the ear mites? They are minute parasites that live in the lining of the ear canal.
Feeding on blood, they bite through the lining of the ear, which creates swelling and discomfort for your animal.
If you dont treat an ear mite infection, secondary problems may set in, including yeast or bacterial infections, sores, blood clots, and surgery.
In the worst case scenario, an untreated ear mite problem may result in loss of hearing.
Ear mites are like fleas - they will easily find another host if one is available.
Ear mite infections are a particular problem in places where there are large numbers of animals, such as pounds, boarding kennels and breeders.
Treat all animals at the same time to ensure you dont get repeated re-infections.
Although both dogs and cats may contract ear mites, you should take special car if you are the proud owner of a spaniel as their glorious long haired long ears are especially attractive to ear mites.
Ear mite treatments are available over the counter. Clean ears are a must so try PNP Healthy Ears Ear Cleanser for Dogs to get rid of any discharge or dirt in the ear.
Clean ears are less susceptible to infection and the specially designed applicator makes this product simple to apply. You can use it on an ongoing basis and it is especially recommended for after swims.
Lambert Kay Ear Rite Insecticidal Ear Wash is another great ear cleaner product in the battle against ear mite infections.
Use it to clean the outer areas of the ear in order to stop infection taking hold. To combat yeast infections and mites, ClearQuest Ear Powder is a good solution.
It will get rid of any odor problems and will keep ears dry, leading to fewer yeast-type infections.
ClearQuest also make Ear Wipes - a quick and convenient way to keep your cat or dogs ears clean and healthy.
Each wipe is infused with anti-bacterial and anti-fungal agents which prevent yeast and bacterial infections forming. Easy to store in a resealable container, this time saving product will do the job, and wont need any cleaning up afterwards.
Dr Golds Extra Gentle Ear Therapy for dogs and cats is another option to clean your pets ears quickly, cleanly and effectively.
Because its made with tea tree oil and witch hazel, you can rest assured you are cleaning your pets ear with a product that contains natural ingredients.
Zymox Pet is a good choice for severe problems.
This is a good solution for mite problems as it contains an active but natural ingredient which kills mites. Because of its effective nature, breeders and show people swear by it.
If the situation has gotten really bad and your are struggling to cope with repeated or severe infections you need something with some punch, such as Zymox Otic.
Use once a day for seven days for acute symptoms and double the time for chronic infections.
Your pets ears dont have to be a problems with Zymox For Dogs.
Watch out for those warning signs and use Zymox Otic to deal with ear mite and yeast problems fast.
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How to Toilet Train Your Dog
Your dog instinctively prefers to stay clean. If you watch a puppy that has been tied up or left in a kennel, he will automatically defecate away from where he eats and sleeps. You will be able to use this to your advantage when training your dog to use one particular spot for his or her physical needs.
Step One: Creating a Bathroom Area
It's a good idea to choose one specific spot where your dog will be eliminating before you even bring the puppy home. The best way to do this is to pick a spot, perhaps in the corner of the yard where your dog will be comfortable defecating. Some dogs prefer to do their business on grass, while others will actively seek out dirt. If you know ahead of time which type of area your dog prefers, this will help you prepare a nice spot.
Step Two: Establish Living Areas
Your dog will instinctively avoid defecating or urinating within living areas, so you'll need to make sure he understands that the entire house is considered a living area. If you are crate training, you can simply move the crate from room to room, while keeping the dog inside. Otherwise, establish one spot as a sleeping and playing area and then begin to move the dog's bed and toys from room to room until he has accepted that the house is his home. Be sure to progress slowly so the dog has a chance to get used to each area.
Step Three: Be Regular
Dogs do very well on a schedule and this goes for a feeding schedule, as well. If you are starting with a small puppy, you'll notice that he needs to eliminate after each feeding. So, once he has eaten, simply take him to the assigned toilet area and let him do his thing. Your dog will catch on very quickly that this is where he should be defecating. Puppy training requires consistancy and patience.
Step Four: Rewards and Consistency
It will take some time to toilet train your dog. Be sure to allow him frequent access to the toilet area and never leave your dog too long in his crate or alone in the house, since this will result in training issues as your dog won't be able to hold it.
Rewards every time your puppy uses the assigned elimination area will help increase his interest in the toilet training. You don't necessarily need to use edible treats, simply responding with a fun toy or verbal praise is often more than enough to let your dog know that you are pleased with him.
By staying patient, not getting upset when your dog slips up and being sure to let him know that you are happy when he uses the toilet area, you'll find that most dogs pick up the idea of house training rather rapidly. Confusion or being shut up indoors can cause delays in the learning process, so be sure to be consistent and calm about the whole thing. Your dog wants to please you and by using his natural instincts, you are encouraging traits that will come naturally to your pet.
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When agents, Kyle Ziegler and Joe Borosky, got no answer to their knock, they prevailed upon a next door neighbor to allow them to look from their back yard. What they saw was gruesome!
Worried over conditions and concerned about other dogs, they entered the property. They found 7 dead and 8 starved emaciated dogs inside. (WARNING - Graphic Pictures at end of story)
When police arrived and arrested Croley, they found 4 more dogs inside the house, also very skinny and malnourished.
When asked if Croley had any explanation for dead and starving dogs, Borosky quoted the kennel operator as saying: “Times are hard, I can’t afford to feed them. I love my dogs.”
Dog owners say they dont understand how he can possibly say that.
A woman saying that she gave him over four hundred dollars, and another woman paid him over four hundred dollars just last week. So he had moneywhat he did with it, I dont know, but he was not feeding the animals with it, says Nikole Owen, CEO of Animal Charity, who spoke with some of the dogs owners.
Croley was originally charged with nineteen counts of animal cruelty and neglect, but was arraigned on only four counts in court because Youngstown City Prosecutor Jay Macejko says the Humane Agents with Animal Charity went onto Croleys property prematurely, without the necessary warrants. Macejko says Animal Charity acted unlawfully, and that its unlawful conduct sacrificed a full scale prosecution.
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Whats commonly found in rendering plants?
In a Rendering Plant, you would see animals in various states such as disabled, diseased, dying, dead and decaying. These animals include skunks, snakes, opossums, cats, dogs, circus animals, raccoons, horses and foxes. Furthermore, Rendering Plants process billions of pounds of decaying flesh and kitchen grease, obtained mainly from fast food restaurants, into commercial meat and bone meal, tallow and yellow grease where much of it ends up in commercial pet foods.
Rendering Plants claim that although they sell their products to various companies including pet food companies and cosmetic companies, theyre doing it as a public service and not for profits.
A look inside a rendering plant
Inside a Rendering Plant, there is a big vat used to cook this mixture of flesh and grease and that creates heat to the tune of about 90% inside the plant. There are piles of animals awaiting their turn to be added to the vat. The piles of skunks, rats, cattle, sheep, pigs, dogs, cats, raccoons and various other animals seem to take on a life of their own as maggots swarm all over the piles.
Two men operating Bobcat mini dozer loading the raw materials into a 10-foot-deep stainless steel pit. A giant auger-grinder begins to turn. Popping bones and squeezing flesh are sounds from a nightmare youll never forget.
From this process, a fat of yellow grease or tallow is produced and skimmed off. At a hammer mill press, the remaining moisture is squeezed out and pulverized into a gritty powder. After bones and hair are removed, all thats left are meat, bone meal and yellow grease.
Every day of the week, Rendering Plants truck millions of tons of their products to manufacturers that put it into cosmetics and animal feed that ends up in pet food products and since humans eat meat, it can end up on our tables.
How can your pets possibly be benefiting from these products
When you see ingredients on your pet food products labeled as; meat meal, meat by-products, poultry by-products, fish meal, fish oil, yellow grease, tallow, beef fat and chicken fat, now you know their origin. They all are produced at Rendering Plants.
Pets are shoved into the pit with flea collars still attached. The insecticide Dursban arrives in the form of cattle insecticide patches. Euthanized drugs given to pets and pharmaceuticals leak from antibiotics in livestock are also included.
Rendering Plant officials claim that it isnt economical feasible to have someone remove the pets ID tags surgical pins and needles and plastics wrap from supermarket rejected meat, chicken and fish. Therefore all that plastic and metal become part of your pet food.
Its fair to say that without Rendering Plants, our cities would run the danger of becoming filled with diseased and rotting carcasses. Fatal viruses and bacteria would spread through the population but its not safe for pet food manufacturers to use products produced at Rendering Plants.
In the final analysis, we have to understand that Rendering Plants produce products that are toxic to our pets. The drug Sodium Phenobarbital is used to euthanize pets of all type. This drug is not destroyed in the rendering process; therefore the product produced by the Rendering Plants that go into our pet foods contains sodium Phenobarbital.
The pet food companies have proven that theyre not going to produce food that is wholesome, nutritional and good for our beloved pets.
We as pet owners continue to purchase their products although it has been proven that they produce pet foods that are killing our pets. Why as pet owners do we refuse to invest time to discover what really goes into a bag of pet food?
Theres something that all of you pet owners should realize, you are sentencing your pet to a premature and painful death. Yes, Im talking to you if you are one of millions of pet owners buying and feeding your pet commercial pet food. Simply put, if you fail to take time to discover what goes into the food that your pet eats the commercial pet food industry will capitalize on that and our pets will continue to to die prematurely and the makers of this food will continue to laugh all the way to the bank.
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